Controller Stick Drift Test
Connect a controller, hold it still, and this test samples both analog sticks every frame. If your PS5 DualSense, Xbox or Switch Pro pad suffers from stick drift, the raw axis values will drift away from center. No software, no upload, everything runs in your browser.
Not sure which device is at fault? Start with the input device fault diagnosis hub: it maps symptoms to the right test, then to repair, replace or return.
Left stick
Right stick
The faint ring around each dot is this stick's resting scatter — the furthest it wandered in any direction this run. Green means the wander stayed under your selected threshold; red means it exceeded it. The circ count shows whether that wander is one fixed direction (a pull) or spread around the full circle (module wear). Below each pad, the circle calibration bar fills up as you rotate the stick — spin each stick in slow full circles (2 laps) to check for travel loss, center jumps, and radius wobble from worn potentiometers.
Waiting for a controller connection. Press any button to begin sampling.
How the drift test works
Analog sticks report their position as two numbers between −1 and +1 for each axis. A healthy stick at rest sits within ±0.05 of center; manufacturers allow a small deadzone before games start treating it as movement. When the potentiometer module inside the stick wears out, the resting value creeps away from zero. That is drift. This page samples both sticks on every animation frame, about 60 times per second, and keeps the peak absolute value plus a count of how many frames exceeded your chosen threshold.
The three thresholds match common game engine deadzones: 0.05 is strict (competitive shooters), 0.08 is the typical console default, and 0.12 is lenient. A stick that only trips the lenient threshold will feel fine in games, but the wear is real and it will get worse. Rest the pad on a desk, keep your hands off the sticks, and let it sample for ten seconds before reading the verdict.
What your numbers mean
| Resting magnitude | What it means | Recommended action |
|---|---|---|
| Under 0.05 | Healthy stick, well inside every game deadzone | Nothing to do — re-test in a few months |
| 0.05 – 0.08 | Early wear. Subtle in most games, visible in precise aiming | Monitor it: re-test monthly and keep warranty details handy |
| 0.08 – 0.15 | Noticeable drift you can feel in menus and aim | Decision zone: warranty claim, cleaning, or module replacement |
| Over 0.15 | Severe. Aim moves even with in-game deadzones applied | Claim warranty if covered; otherwise replace the module now |
Warranty note: every major manufacturer now treats drift as a defect on current-gen controllers, and Joy-Con repairs are free in many regions. A resting value above 0.08 that persists across a ten-second sample is the evidence a claim needs, so use the copy button on the result card.
A clean drift reading does not always mean the stick is innocent: worn sticks can also travel a long way before the axis starts responding, which shows up as floaty aim while every resting number looks fine. The controller dead zone test measures that travel separately and splits it into drift and true dead travel — run it when the resting numbers are clean but the stick still feels off.
What to do if drift is detected
Do not replace the controller yet. Most drift comes from a worn or dirty potentiometer module, which costs a few dollars and is replaceable with basic tools on most popular pads. For a full walkthrough of connecting the pad and reading the results, see the how to test controller drift guide; for the cleaning-versus-replacement decision, read the stick drift fix guide. Run the test again after a warranty claim repair to confirm the fix actually worked.
Frequently asked questions
Why does the page ask me to press a button first?
For privacy and security, browsers only expose Gamepad data after the user physically interacts with the device. Pressing any button tells your browser the controller is yours to test.
Does this test work with wireless controllers?
Yes, over Bluetooth or a USB dongle. A wired USB connection gives the most stable readings because Bluetooth can drop packets at low battery, which may mimic momentary spikes.
What stick drift value is bad?
Anything persistently above 0.08 on a resting stick will be noticeable in most games. Above 0.15 is severe drift that affects aiming even with in-game deadzones applied.
Is my controller data uploaded anywhere?
No. The test reads axis values through the browser Gamepad API and everything stays in your tab. There is no upload endpoint, no account, and no telemetry.
A resting value of 0.02–0.04 — is that drift?
No, that is normal electrical noise and manufacturing tolerance. Every stick reports a tiny resting offset. Drift is a value that stays above 0.05 and creeps upward; noise wiggles around zero and averages out. Read the verdict, not the first frame.
Why does drift only show up in some games?
Because games use different deadzones. A game with a wide deadzone swallows early drift; a shooter with a tight one exposes it as a slowly moving aim. The test shows the raw value precisely so you can predict which of your games will feel it.
What does the circle calibration actually check?
It checks the stick for wear that resting drift cannot show: travel loss (the circle narrows), center jumps (the dot snaps when crossing center), and radius wobble (an oval instead of a circle). Rotate each stick slowly for two full laps and watch the roundness number — 1.00 is a perfect circle; anything above 1.3 flags the run for a closer look, and above 1.6 means a worn potentiometer.
A brand-new controller reads over 0.08 at rest. Should I return it?
Yes, that is the open-box test most people skip. Persistent drift out of the box is either a bad module or heavy handling damage in transit — both are the seller's problem. Screenshot the reading, keep it dated, and the copy button on the result card gives you a one-click report for the claim.